Brâc, Barracks and Beaches in Split

Our luck continued with the weather bringing sunshine and warm temperatures. After such a full on day at the Krka waterfalls we decided to take it slow on Monday. On the map we’d been left of Split we could see several nice beaches to the left of the city. We found our way to the promenade that traces it’s way around the beaches. It was a little windier than usual so there was a bit of a swell. Most of the restaurants were still closed for winter, but you could imagine that the beaches and restaurants would be humming when the temperatures hit the mid 30s in the middle of June here.

After a windy walk we decided to grab a coffee at a little cafe overlooking the beach. It was so nice to sit beside the water and sip a warm coffee. The bonus feature for us was the little playground that was next to the cafe, you could even take your coffee from the cafe and sit closer to it.


As it was Zoe’s final day on Tuesday we decided to take the car ferry to Supertar, the main port of the island of Brâc. We navigated our way successfully onto the ferry after purchasing our tickets at the office beside the dock for our boat. It was lucky we arrived 20 minutes early as it took quite some navigation. The ferry ride takes approximately 55 minutes and was very smooth. The weather forecast was for rain but not much appeared thankfully. Here’s a view from top of the ferry before we docked in Supetar.


I’d read online about an olive oil museum on Brâc with an amazing sounding tapas menu. Their Facebook page and website made it sound as though it was open so we thought we’d try to stop for lunch there. Before we headed to the museum we drove out to an archaeological site just past Postira. It has a ruined basilica dedicated to Saint Lawrence and is situated on a very sheltered golden sandy beach. Clambering around on the ruins was especially fun when we could find insects and locusts to watch.


We met Andrea and her son there who had moved to Brâc from the UK last year. She had some good recommendations for lunch and even kindly gave us her cell phone number to call when we were next back in Brâc to have a coffee! Thea especially loved playing with Aaron (her 3 year old) and the two Hungarian Daschaund puppies.


After Evie had finished her nap we got back in the cars and headed for the Olive oil museum with our tummies rumbling. Unfortunately as seems to be the case in winter the museum was closed. The view from there was still pretty nice.


I wish that they considered opening in March as the weather had been so stunning. Instead we got back in the cars and after a few unexpected detours we got to Supetar for lunch. Freshly grilled lamb filled our tummies. Thea even got to play on the playground on the waterfront there as we waited for the ferry. It was a rather expensive day out given the museum was closed, the ferry was about 380HRK or $80NZD return. But we enjoyed each other’s company and had fun anyway!

A glorious sunset greeted us back in Split before the rain set in. Gelato was on the cards plus a warm coffee and cake at our favourite Riva side restaurant Bistro 7.

Zoe headed off on her flight back to Amsterdam very early on Wednesday morning so a quiet day at home was on the cards. We had brunch out and found some delicious french toast to eat!

The afternoon was a laid back visit to the Mall of Split where we all had fun in the Lego shop. Steph created our Split group out of Lego. It was nice to have a more relaxed day.
Thursday was our final full day in Split, I accidentally ruined our pancakes by adding salt instead of sugar. Another brunch stop was in order for some tasty french toast instead. Once we’d satiated our appetites we headed off in the cars for the Klis fortress in the hills overlooking Split and closer to the city of Solin (about 20 minutes drive away). It was on both our tour guide, Olga’s recommendation and also for the fact that the fortress had been featured in Game of Thrones as the city of Mereen.

The fortress boasts an extremely good vantage point overlooking the harbour of Split, it was easy to see why it was considered a military asset and stronghold throughout the centuries. The fortress has only started to be restored and preserved in earnest in the last 5 years. Rich in local history it had been a catalyst in many takeovers of the area including by the Ottoman, Venetian and Roman Empires. The European Union has funded a small museum and interactive exhibit on the history in one of the houses on site. I had a lot of fun reading through it while rocking Evie to sleep in the front pack.
Added to that it has an absolutely fantastic view and cool ruins to wander through. I’ll let the pictures speak for themselves.

After spending an hour and a half wandering around we headed for Trogir for another wander around and some lunch. Pizza and a big plate of pasta was on the menu. We were super impressed when Thea finished almost all of the pasta on her own! The sun was gleaming on the water again, as we meandered towards our cars on the boulevard.

It had been a truly fabulous trip to Split, one of my favourite parts of our trip. Spending longer in a place meant we could really relax and enjoy all the sights.

Tomorrow we are flying back to Munich for a night and then taking another flight the next day to Copenhangen!

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